21st May to 23rd May, Gibraltar to Marbella via uncomfortable night off Sotogrande

We left Gibraltar Saturday afternoon for a very slow 15 mile sail to an anchorage off of Sotogrande. Bad move, despite no wind, or apparent waves, overnight Cara Mara rolled in a most uncomfortable way. Our first anchorage of the trip was not a great success. Fortunately, next morning sun and a good breeze cheered us up as we sailed the 22 miles down the coast to Marbella.

Never having visited the town before, first impression were not great, busy beaches, lots of high rise. We have now had a chance to wander round the old town, which lying within the walls of the 10 century Moorish fortress are pretty, despite the many upmarket tourist shops.

We took the bus for an afternoon in Ojen, a white walled village in the hills above Marbella, slightly cooler than the 28 degrees in Marbella.

Leaving Gibraltar

Marbella old town, the church like many in this part of Spain was originally a mosque.

Marbella old town

The church and main square of Ojen, a small village in the hills above Marbella

The view from Ojen to the coast.

19th and 20th May Gibraltar

We found Gibraltar to be just weird. The cable car up to the Top Rock was just as we expected, the views are fantastic, the “apes” (actually tailless monkeys) are there and they do try to get into your rucksack to steal food. There is a lot of history, not just the centuries of British military occupation but also the periods of Moorish and Spanish rule. The weirdness was at its greatest shopping for food in Morrison’s.  Everything is exactly like shopping at home, the signs, the products, the layout, (everything except customers drinking at the bar), it was just like being teleported back home.

View from the Top Rock, Cara Mara is in the marina bottom right.

They look cute, but don't turn your back on the monkeys.

The botanical gardens are surprisingly good

View towards battery point. The second world war guns were capable of firing shells right across the Straights, but apparently only one German submarine was eversunk

mother and baby

18th May, Barbate to Gibraltar

We were very excited to be setting off for the 36 mile trip to Gibraltar; it seemed like a big milestone in our journey since we set off from Preston last April. It was sunny with a clear sky but with the wind coming through the Straights of Gibraltar we motored rather than sailed. We were very happy that we only had 10-15 knots of wind against us as in the last few weeks there have been several prolonged periods where it has been 20-30. 

Shipping in the Straights, with the mountains of North Africa in the background

Entering the narrows passing Travira lighthouse. The town of Travira has the doubious distinction of one of the highest suicide rates in the world, the population apparenty driven mad by the constant winds.

Gibraltar at last

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Weaving in between many anchored ships on the way to the marina

15th May Rota to Barbate

Stuart had his first sail on the 38 miles down the coast, round Cape Trafalgar to the small town of Barbate. We were astonished to find that as we sailed past Cape Trafalgar we could see the coast of North Africa on the horizon. Somehow we were expecting Cape Trafalgar to be a magnificent headland, but in reality it is a low sandy promontory, still you can’t beat the history.

Barbate is a good sized fishing port and the last stopping off point before the 40 mile passage to Gibraltar. Its marina was built with great things in mind but now looks thinly used and a bit run down, which is a shame as the town has great beaches.

Cape Trafalgar

We are now south of Cape Trafalgar, Africa is on the other horizon

The lovely sandy beach of Barbate (we may be the only tourists here)